Seven months of booking reservations, reading, researching, planning, worrying, packing, and dreaming. Seven months of boring my mother, my friends (Erica!), Matt, and the kids with all the details.
All of that planning led to two weeks of amazing travel through Italy and Switzerland. Five apartments or hotels, two flights, fourteen trains, and a few boat rides. Almost 700 photos. The first of what I hope will be many trips across the Atlantic.
And we’re off!
We left on Father’s Day, just the four of us, three suitcases, two backpacks, and one carry-on. A movie (The Theory of Everything), half a book (not worth sharing), and a three hour night’s sleep later, we were in Rome.
We arrived at our apartment, dumped our stuff, and went exploring. But first we ate. The kids preferred getting their own pizzas, but I loved the pizza you ordered from the counter. Pick a slice of this, a slice of that, and pay by weight.
One of my favorite things about Rome was the mix of ancient and modern. It struck me right away, when we strolled around the Jewish Ghetto where we were staying and found the Teatro di Marcello. It was built in 13 BCE (before the Colosseum), and residences were built on top of it in the sixteen century.
Can you imagine glancing out of your window to check the weather, and seeing rumble or columns that are thousands of years old? It may be normal for Romans, but it amazed me.
After napping off a little jet lag, we walked to the Spanish Steps for our first tour of the trip. It was an introduction to Rome, and our Aussie ex-pat guide showed us around her adopted city. While there is a nice view from the top of the steps, it was teeming with tourists and vendors hawking roses and selfie sticks.
Our guide’s most useful tip: you can drink the water from Rome’s fountains. The city boasts over 2000 fountains, more than any other city in the world. No matter how sketchy it may look, if a fountain is spouting water, it is cold and drinkable. We refilled our water bottles constantly, and if you plug the opening with your thumb, the water will spout out of a hole on the top so you can drink from a makeshift water fountain.
This fountain is right outside the Colosseum metro stop.
As we strolled the city, we stopped at the Pantheon. My photos don’t capture the architectural genius of the building; at almost 2000 years old, it still has the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world. The height to the top center of the dome is equal to its interior diameter (142 feet).
This says “”Marcus Agrippa, son of Lucius, made [this building] when consul for the third time.” Excavations suggest that the building was destroyed and rebuilt by Hadrian, but he kept the original inscription.
Inside the Pantheon – the oculus and the entry door are the only natural sources of light.
Take the streets of New York City, scrabble them around until there is no rhyme or reason, and you have the streets of Rome. Alleys that look like dead ends are never dead ends, and street names are on the sides of buildings, except when they aren’t. If we had not had Google maps, we would still be wandering in the Eternal City.
See the plaque on the left edge of the photo? That is the street sign.
But you can’t wander too far without stumbling upon a piazza, and Piazza Navona is a big one.
Looking down the piazza from fountain; it’s filled with artists and vendors selling their wares.
Our tour ended with the sunset and our second gelato of the day. When in Rome, after all.
Day two was full of more walking and exploring, and our first glimpse of the Colosseum.
Above each entry arch to the Colosseum is a Roman numeral, so the citizens knew where to enter.
The highlight of our day was a four hour food tour, with eight stops and three glasses of wine. And gelato, of course (for a cumulative count of four). I have no photos of this experience, due primarily to the three glasses of wine and the food coma I was in after eight stops. The stroll back to our apartment woke me up, as did the view over the Tiber River.
Day three was Wonder of the World Wednesday – the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. We booked a tour for these sites, which proved to be a smart move. The entry lines were long, and there is so much to see that doing it on our own would have been overwhelming.
Back in the day, the world’s largest amphitheater could hold 80.000 spectators.
Our tour guide was full of information, and he took us through the structure from the point of view of a gladiator, a noble, and a peasant. Fun fact: The losing gladiator was usually shown mercy so he lived to fight again. Killing such a potential money maker was foolish. In the photo below, the partially built stage is where the floor of the arena was, and underneath was where the fighters and animals waited.
Myth buster: The Colosseum was probably NOT filled with water to stage warship battles. This would have flooded the underground portions.
Outside of the Colosseum is the Arch of Constantine. Ancient Romans were big on triumphal arches. Won a battle? Build an arch. Constantine beat Maxentius in battle in 312, and this was dedicated in 315. The Colosseum is to the right, with scaffolding. How cool would it be to say, “Yes, I’m a construction worker. I’m renovating the freakin’ COLOSSEUM!”
We then explored Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum. Palatine Hill is one of the most ancient parts of the city, and was home to several emperors, including the first ruler of the Roman Empire, Augustus. This is the private stadium of the Palace of Domitian, who was eight emperors after Augustus. At the lower right of the photo you can see the remains of a blue umbrella, which I suspect was from Domitian’s private stash.
In the valley of Palatine Hill is the Forum, with its remains of temples, arches, and shrines. These are the oldest human-made things I have ever seen.
The Temple of Saturn (left) and the Temple of Vespasian and Titus (right)
After an afternoon nap, we headed back out into the city. The Trevi Fountain is under a huge renovation, but we still were able to toss a penny in (so that, according to legend, we are assured a return trip to Rome).
The temporarily fountain-less Trevi fountain.
Our Aussie tour guide from the first day told us we had to stop in Antico Caffé Greco, the oldest bar in Rome. Opened in 1760, Byron, Keats, and Hans Christian Andersen sipped espresso there. Thinking perhaps that was the key to becoming a famous writer, I sidled up to the bar and had a cappuccino.
We learned a few interesting things about coffee in Italy. First, there is one price for standing at the bar and drinking it, and almost twice the price to sit at a table and sip. At the bar, it will cost you a euro or two. You usually pay before you order, and “caffé” is espresso. Real Italians don’t order cappuccino after noon, but who am I kidding? I’m not Italian. I did have espresso after dinner a few times, and it was perfect.
Our final day in Rome was filled with faith, history and tradition. Stay tuned for When in Rome Part Two!
So awesome. I would love to go there some day. The food alone would make me happy.
Yep, the food would do it for me too. Just thinking about the dinners we had makes my stomach grumble.
Oh my God Dana, I am in heaven, living vicariously through you! I really hope one day I’m contacting you for advice for planning our trip to Rome!
Please do, Allie – I’d love that!
I love these pictures! I love Italy so much and haven’t been since college. Made me nostalgic.
Such glorious pictures!! I went to Rome as a child and don’t remember half of it! Definitely want to revisit!
Oh, you should, Roshni. I hope you can one day!
It sounds like the trip was a success and all your planning paid off! Makes me want to visit Rome again. I love all your photos and the fountain-less Trevi. What a bummer for those wanting a photo op! Can’t wait to read the next installment.
It was a bummer, but what can you do? And I meant to tell you that I loved my Cinda B carry-on; thank you for recommending it!
So glad to hear it! I’m glad you survived in one piece. Europe can be exhausting!
So awesome! I saw this on my phone the other day and am so glad I clicked back to see it on the real screen. The photos are incredible! And pizza by the weight? Brilliant!!
It is brilliant – and delicious.
oh I am having serious jealousy pangs right now! that pizza, that gelato! yummylicious! the food in Italy is THE BEST!
I know! I still think about it. Sigh.
Wow! Amazing pictures – thanks for including so many. Someday, I hope to get to Italy. Thanks for the tips.
My pleasure, Julia!
What a GORGEOUS trip, Dana! Thanks for sharing!
Ah, there’s your comment Shay! There are plenty more pics to come…
Yes please!! The amount of character in life in these photos makes me wish I lived elsewhere. So much history to see and learn about. It’s a shame cities in the US don’t take a cue from their European neighbors and develop homes with more stunning architecture. We’ve become too cookie cutter for our own good. *sigh*
Cannot wait to read your next post and see the photos. These are stunning!
Thank you Kim – I feel like they don’t do the real thing justice. It’s nothing like being there, but the photos help me remember the experience.
***How cool would it be to say, “Yes, I’m a construction worker. I’m renovating the freakin’ COLOSSEUM!”***
SO COOL)))
This post took my breath away. How can one take in so much beauty at one time. AMaaaaaaaaaaaAZING.
Thank you for this. Breathtaking. xx
Glad you liked it! There are even better pics to come…wait until the Swiss Alps!
Such beautiful photos! This entire post makes me long to be back there. I would be just like you, spending seven months planning every little detail. But look at how much fun you had! Love that you had gelato so many times, too!
And there’s more to come – you can never have too much gelato.
Ah!!! WOW WOW WOW!!! I loved LOVED learning from you and your experience, Dana!! Thank you for the educational snippets and those pics are absolutely BREATHTAKING!!! I can’t WAIT for more!!
Thank you for your enthusiasm, Chris – you make me smile 🙂
What a wonderful trip! You know, we visit historical sites in the U.S. and are amazed when something is two or three hundred years old. Then you look at a place like Rome and something built in the 1700 is just about brand new! Great, great pictures! How do you choose which ones to post from among 700?!?!
It’s not easy, Mo – that’s why it’s taking me so long to get these posts up!
Pizza – pay by weight? Where have you been all my life?
A city full of fountains that have drinkable water? Where have you been all my life?
Two gelatos in one day? Where have you been all my life?
Construction worker renovating the freakin’ COLOSSEUM? ” ”
Can I come next time? Would that be awkward? Please say no.
Not awkward at all. We can eat gelato as we roam through Rome…
What an amazing trip! The pizza looks delicious, and how cool that you can drink from the fountains 🙂
It is cool – literally. Even on really hot days, the water comes out fresh and cool.
Ahhh, nothing like a virtual tour of Rome to help quell my wanderlust. Thank you, everything looks wonderful 🙂
My pleasure…there is lots more to come!
Wow, Dana! This looks like an amazing trip! Your pictures are amazing and I love the stories behind them. I’d love to make a trip to Italy!
I hope you can get there someday, Rabia!
It sounds like you had an amazing (and busy!) trip with your family. Can you imagine seeing that every day? I guess you take it for granted if you live there. My sister spent a semester in Rome and loved it. I went there for my spring break when I was studying in Spain. It’s a really amazing city!
Our food tour guide spent a semester in Rome too, and stayed. Gwen has the study abroad bug, which makes me very happy!
Great pictures and history lesson! And by the way- I loved hearing your planning! I am ready to see ALL of the pictures!
Come over anytime!
I enjoyed the views. So do you get smirked at if you order a cappuccino at night or after noon? How are the locals, are they friendly?
I ordered mine in late afternoon, and the barista was very nice. I’m sure he’s used to tourists. Don’t order after dinner though – just get a caffe! The locals were very friendly. I think if you are a friendly and respectful tourist, you’ll be treated the same. A smile and a “buona sera” or buon giorno” goes a long way.
I ordered mine in the late afternoon, and the barista was lovely…I’m sure he serves tons of tourists. The locals were friendly, and patient with our clumsy attempts to speak Italian. They quickly switched to English to put us out of our misery! A greeting (in Italian) and a smile goes a long way, I think.
Beautiful pictures. The trip sounds AMAZING! We leave Saturday for our first adventure across the Atlantic. I hope I can capture our experience half as well as you did.
How fun – where are you going?
Six days in Ireland. Drew is playing on a select soccer team playing a tournament in Limerick. We will do some day trips from there. Then we are driving to Dublin and taking the ferry to Wales and then train to London for 6 days. I can’t wait!
Awesome – have a blast! The kids would like to see England and Ireland on our next trip.
Oh, Dana, your account is splendid! I’m so glad you had such a wonderful time. I was in Rome when I was 15 and stayed at the Convent located at the top of the Spanish Steps. I’ve no idea if that’s even possible today. I remember eating the juiciest apricots that grew in the small orchard out back.
Yum! I think the four of us would get kicked out of a convent…we are not the quietest bunch. I know you can still stay at some convents in Italy, and I think it’s a good option for budget travelers.
Sounds amazing!
It was, Christie – words and photos just don’t do it justice.
Gorgeous!!!!! I also love that you can drink from the fountains. That is genius and we need that in the states ASAP.
I can’t wait to see and read more updates 🙂
We definitely need that here – water fountains are usually gross. And this water just tasted better.
Sounds like an amazing trip!!!! So much to see and do in Rome and it looks like you were capturing it all! Can’t wait to read more!!!!
We did feel like we did it all, but I know we only scratched the surface!
Great photos!!! I love it and I want to go -been to London, & Paris; Italy is net on my list! We have been talking about a trip for our family for net summer. My oldest wants to go to Italy, but I’m not sure the youngest (will be 8) is quite ready???
She may be. London and Paris are next on my kids’ lists – they were already talking about it while we were still in Europe!
I am Italian, but still am with you with the cappuccino drinking and your whole trip sounded amazing! Seriously, I hope to someday get to visit Rome myself and now I cannot wait to hear all about part 2 😉
Thanks, Janine…I bet you’re getting really excited for your big trip in August too!